A public viewing telescope stands on a terrace overlooking Florence, with the Florence Cathedral dome and city rooftops visible in the background under a cloudy sky. The image emphasizes a panoramic viewpoint across the historic city.

Where to Stay in Florence for First Time Visitors (Literary Guide)

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Florence is one of those rare cities that feels made for wandering.

It is romantic without trying too hard. Evocative without being theatrical. A city where you can cross from Renaissance grandeur to quiet, sun-dappled piazzas in under ten minutes — and where every street seems to whisper a story.

If you fell in love with Florence through Still Life by Saran Winman, you may already feel as though you know it. The ochre buildings, the Arno at dusk, the hum of conversation spilling from Santo Spirito.

If you’re planning your first visit, one question inevitably comes up: where to stay in Florence. With so many beautiful neighbourhoods — each with its own atmosphere — choosing the right base can shape your entire experience of the city.

The good news is that Florence is wonderfully walkable. The better news? Each neighbourhood has a distinct personality. Choosing the right one can shape your entire experience.

Here’s our guide to the best areas in Florence — especially if you want to bring Still Life beautifully to life.

Oltarno – Beyond the River (And Into the Heart of the Novel)

Oltarno literally means “beyond the Arno” — and it feels like stepping into a quieter, more intimate Florence.

If you’re wondering where to stay in Florence for literary atmosphere, Oltarno is hard to beat. This is where you should stay to really immerse yourself into Still Life; Oltarno is the emotional and geographic heart of the novel. It’s here that Ulysses and Evelyn find community, purpose, and belonging.

Compared to the bustle across the river, Oltarno feels:

  • More local
  • More artisanal
  • More bohemian
  • Less crowded

Piazza Santo Spirito is the beating heart of the neighbourhood — a lively square filled with conversation, wine glasses, and the slow theatre of Florentine life. It’s the kind of place where you linger.

You’re also perfectly placed for:

  • The Pitti Palace
  • The Boboli Gardens (with their sweeping city views)
  • The Brancacci Chapel in Piazza del Carmine
  • Sunset walks up to Piazzale Michelangelo

The streets are narrower. The antique shops are more intriguing. The atmosphere is creative and lived-in.

If you want Florence with texture rather than gloss — this is it.

A Aperol Spritz cocktail and a copy of the book 'Still Life' by Sarah Winman rest on a stone ledge overlooking Florence rooftops and a church bell tower at sunset. The scene captures a relaxed moment with city views stretching toward distant hills.

Where to Stay in Oltarno

Spirit of Florence Boutique Rooms

To fully immerse yourself in Ulysses’ world, stay directly on Piazza Santo Spirito.

Here, you can throw open the shutters in the morning to birdsong and church bells from the Basilica. The rooms combine authentic character — high-beamed ceilings and traditional detailing — with real comfort: memory foam mattresses, pillow choices, and double-glazed windows to soften the square’s evening buzz.

Double rooms start at £80 per night, with larger apartments available for longer stays.

Palazzo Ridolfi Apartments

Set inside a 15th-century palace, just minutes from both Santo Spirito and the Ponte Vecchio, these apartments offer Renaissance grandeur with modern practicality.

The ceilings are ornate, the rooms generously sized, and the showers blissfully powerful (not always guaranteed in historic buildings). Some rates include breakfast, and there’s even an old-fashioned gated lift.

Double rooms start from £150 per night.

Hotel Palazzo Guadagni

For old-world elegance, this is the address.

Located on Piazza Santo Spirito, the rooms are vast, the service impeccable, and breakfast is served on a rooftop terrace overlooking Florence’s skyline. In the evening, it transforms into one of the most atmospheric spots in the city for sunset drinks.

Double rooms from £250 per night.

The Fountain of Neptune in Piazza della Signoria shows a large marble statue surrounded by bronze figures with water splashing into the basin. Historic stone buildings frame the square, highlighting Florence’s Renaissance architecture.

Centro Storico – Florence’s Open-Air Museum

If it’s your first visit and you want Florence’s icons quite literally on your doorstep, the Centro Storico is hard to beat. For many travellers researching where to stay in Florence for the first time, the Centro Storico naturally rises to the top.

Here you’ll find many of the big-hitting Florence sights:

It is busier. More polished. More expensive. But it’s also breathtaking.

Staying here means stepping out of your door and into a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Every corner feels like something you’ve seen in a film, and it really does seem at times like you’re walking around in a giant open-air museum.

It’s also within easy walking distance of Santa Maria Novella train station — convenient if Florence is one stop on a longer Italian journey.

There are more accommodation options here than anywhere else in the city, so you’ve got plenty of choice when it comes to finding a place to stay. The trade off? It is pretty packed with tourists and guided tour groups during the day. It does quieten down in the evenings but you’ll be sharing the streets with a LOT of people when you’re out and about sightseeing. 

It’s also the most expensive area of Florence to stay in. But you do have so much on your doorstep – that alone justifies a stay here.

Where to Stay in Centro Storico

Parione Uno

If waking up to sweeping rooftop views across Florence sounds like your idea of romance, Parione Uno delivers beautifully.

This family-run guesthouse sits just 330 metres from the Ponte Vecchio, placing you within effortless reach of Florence’s most iconic landmarks while still offering a sense of calm above the city’s hum. The decor is eclectic and characterful without feeling cluttered, and the rooms feel intimate rather than anonymous.

There’s also an elevator up to reception — a small but meaningful luxury in a city where many historic buildings require hauling luggage up steep stone staircases.

Double rooms start from £110 per night.

Residenza Giotto

For those who want to be quite literally steps from the Duomo, Residenza Giotto is hard to beat. Located just 150 metres from Florence’s cathedral, some rooms offer direct views over Brunelleschi’s dome — a rare privilege.

The atmosphere feels more like a beautifully managed private apartment than a formal hotel, making it especially appealing for independent travellers who value flexibility and warmth over ceremony. The staff are notably friendly and helpful, striking that perfect balance between attentive and unobtrusive.

Double rooms start from £110 per night.

Arte’ Boutique Hotel

Modern, stylish, and thoughtfully curated, Arte’ Boutique Hotel offers a refreshing contrast to Florence’s Renaissance grandeur.

Expect cool interiors, beautifully presented rooms, and an excellent breakfast to begin your day. The hotel regularly hosts wine tastings and offers a convivial happy hour — perfect for easing into Florentine evenings. Many rooms enjoy views of the Duomo, and the staff are particularly generous with restaurant and sightseeing recommendations.

Double rooms start at £200 per night.

Hotel Spadai

Elegant and reassuringly traditional, Hotel Spadai combines classic Florentine style with genuine warmth.

Just minutes from Piazza della Signoria and almost next door to the Duomo, the location is exceptionally convenient for first-time visitors wanting Florence’s icons within arm’s reach. Most rates include an expansive buffet breakfast, and the refined bar area often offers complimentary wine and snacks — small touches that elevate the experience.

Attentive staff and polished interiors make this a dependable and comfortable base.

Double rooms start from £215 per night.

An ornate interior courtyard in the Palazzo Vecchio in Florence features carved columns, frescoed walls, and a small fountain at the center of a marble floor. The space feels quiet and museum like, showcasing detailed Renaissance design and decoration.

Santa Croce – Historic, Lively, and Literary

Still central but less intense than the Duomo area, Santa Croce offers a wonderful balance.

Piazza di Santa Croce — frequently referenced in Still Life — is one of Florence’s great stages. It’s home to the statue of Dante Alighieri that Evelyn asks Ulysses to give his best to from her, and surrounded on all sides by historic buildings that date back to the 15th and 16th centuries.

You can happily spend a while here sitting outside the cafes, admiring the view and people-watching.

The Basilica itself houses the tombs of Galileo and Michelangelo, and Giotto’s frescoes add artistic depth. In June, the square hosts the famous Calcio Storico — Florence’s gloriously chaotic Renaissance-era sport.

Santa Croce definitely feels:

  • More local than the Duomo district
  • Slightly louder at night
  • Rich in history and atmosphere

It’s ideal if you want proximity to everything without the most intense tourist concentration. There’s less accommodation options here, but there are still plenty of gems to be found. Many of the options in Santa Croce are apartments rather than hotels which makes it a great choice for slightly more independent travellers who want their own space.

And whilst it’s not the Centro Storico itself, it really is only a 10-15minute walk across to those iconic sights in the centre of Florence. 

The ornate marble facade of the historic church in Piazza Santa Croce in Florence stands in a wide stone square under a cloudy sky. Detailed arches and decorative panels dominate the front of the building. To the left of the entrance is a large statue of Dante Aligheri.

Where to Stay in Santa Croce

Plaza Hotel Lucchesi

Overlooking the Arno River, Plaza Hotel Lucchesi offers some of the most captivating views in Florence — whether along the river’s gentle curve or across Piazza Santa Croce itself.

One of the rare Florence hotels with a rooftop swimming pool, it provides a welcome retreat after long days of walking. The rooftop terrace maximises those golden-hour views, making sunset here particularly memorable. The interiors are stylish and comfortable, with a bar, room service, and generous buffet breakfast included.

Standard doubles start from £225 per night. If your budget allows, upgrading to a Deluxe room with a balcony is well worth it for uninterrupted views.

Santa Croce 14 B&B

For those who want to stay directly on the piazza, Santa Croce 14 offers a privileged vantage point.

Located on the corner of Piazza Santa Croce, several rooms feature balconies overlooking the cathedral and Dante’s statue — a quietly powerful setting for literature lovers. The bedrooms are spacious, the bathrooms beautifully finished, and the hosts are notably warm and attentive.

Breakfast is served next door and includes fresh pastries — a simple but delightful way to begin the day.

Standard doubles start from £150; balcony rooms from £235.

Santa Croce Suite View Apartment

If you prefer space and a touch of independence, this apartment option is particularly appealing.

Sleeping up to six, with two bedrooms, two bathrooms, and a sofa bed, it works well for friends travelling together or longer literary stays. The kitchenette and living area allow for relaxed evenings in, and the balcony overlooks the Basilica di Santa Croce.

Do note: there is no lift, and several flights of stairs lead up to the apartment — a consideration for those travelling with heavy luggage.

From £180 per night.

Maison Santa Croce

Charming and boutique in feel, Maison Santa Croce sits just steps from the piazza while offering a quieter retreat.

The decor is warm and thoughtfully styled, the rooms generously sized, and the buffet breakfast plentiful. An attentive concierge service and evening cocktails add a layer of understated indulgence, making it a refined yet comfortable base for exploring Florence.

Double rooms start from £145 per night.

The Ponte Vecchio bridge over the River Arno in Florence, Italy. Capturing the assortment of workshops and shops built on top of each other on the bridge, with three arches in the middle.

So, Where Should First Time Visitors Stay in Florence?

If it’s your first visit and you want Florence’s iconic landmarks at your doorstep, Centro Storico is the obvious choice. But ultimately, where to stay in Florence depends on the experience you want — iconic landmarks, literary atmosphere, or a slightly quieter local feel.

If you want slightly fewer crowds but full historical immersion, Santa Croce offers a perfect middle ground.

But if you’re travelling because of Still Life — if you want to wake up in the world of Ulysses and Evelyn — then Oltarno is where Florence feels most alive.

The beauty of Florence is this: wherever you stay, you are rarely more than 30 minutes’ walk from anywhere. The city invites you to wander — and rewards you when you do.

Bringing Still Life to Life in Florence

If Still Life was your gateway to Florence, why not experience the city through its pages?

You can download our carefully curated digital walking tour, guiding you through the key locations from the novel — Santo Spirito, hidden corners, the emotional landmarks that shaped Ulysses and Evelyn’s story.

Or, if you’d rather travel with a small circle of fellow readers, join one of our Book Club Travel Club group trips. Together, we explore Florence through literature, conversation, and beautifully guided experiences.

Florence is unforgettable on its own.

But when you walk it through the lens of a novel you love — it becomes something entirely different.